By Bevella Macrame Expert Team | May 8, 2026 | 12 min read Most macrame tutorials teach you what knots look like. This guide teaches you what they're actually for. That difference matters enormously in practice. You can copy a square knot from a video in five minutes - but knowing when a spiral knot serves your design better than a square knot, or when a gathering knot solves a structural problem that nothing else can, is what separates crafters who grow quickly from those who get stuck. For many beginners, choosing the right knot for a project is harder than copying the motion itself.
- These 5 knots are enough to begin wall hangings, plant hangers, and many functional macrame projects
- The square knot is the foundation - learn it first, practice it until it's automatic
- The double half hitch creates every diagonal and curved line in macrame design
- The gathering knot solves the most common structural problem: too many loose cords
Key Takeaways
Why Do These 5 Knots Cover Almost Everything?
Macrame's visual complexity is deceptive. Most pieces that look intricate are built from a very small vocabulary of knots, combined and repeated. That is good news for beginners: once you understand a small set of core structures, you can arrange them into many different designs. The five knots in this guide were selected for one reason: application range. Each one solves a specific design or structural problem that the others can't easily substitute for. Master these five and you have the tools to build virtually any wall hanging, plant hanger, or functional macrame piece you'll encounter in your first two years of the craft.
Knot 1: The Square Knot
Square Knot Difficulty: Beginner Cords needed: 4 (2 working, 2 filler) Best cord: 3mm-6mm (approximately 1/8-1/4 inch) twisted The square knot is the foundation of macrame. If you only ever learn one knot, this is the one. It creates a flat, symmetrical knot with a clean square shape that tiles perfectly into grids and diamond patterns. It is one of the most commonly used knots in macrame wall hangings because it creates repeatable flat structure. It uses four cords: two outer "working" cords and two central "filler" cords. The filler cords stay straight; the working cords do the knotting. This distinction is crucial. Many beginners try to pull all four cords equally and wonder why their knots look wrong. The filler cords provide structure; the working cords create the knot around them.
How to Tie a Square Knot (Step by Step)
- Hold your 4 cords. Number them 1, 2, 3, 4 from left to right. Cords 2 and 3 are your fillers.
- Take cord 1 and cross it over cords 2 and 3, then under cord 4. (Half knot, left side.)
- Take cord 4 and pass it under cords 2 and 3, then up through the loop created by cord 1.
- Pull both cords firmly outward - you've completed the first half.
- Now reverse: take cord 4 over cords 2 and 3, under cord 1. Take cord 1 under cords 2 and 3, up through the loop.
- Pull both cords firmly. Your square knot is complete.
When to Use the Square Knot
Use the square knot whenever you need flat, geometric structure. Diamond patterns, grid backgrounds, chevron bands, and any section where you want visible holes or negative space - these are all square knot territory. Repeat square knots in alternating rows (offset by 2 cords per row) to create the classic diamond pattern. Stack them tightly with no gap for a solid, textile-like fabric section.
When NOT to Use the Square Knot
Don't reach for square knots when you need diagonal lines, curved edges, or spiral texture. The knot is inherently horizontal and flat. Trying to force diagonal lines from square knots requires complex spacing adjustments - it's the wrong tool. For diagonals and curves, use double half hitches (Knot 5). For spiral texture, use the spiral knot (Knot 3). Common Mistake: Pulling the working cords downward instead of outward to tighten. Always pull outward from the center of the piece. Downward tension distorts the filler cords and creates uneven spacing between knots.
Knot 2: The Lark's Head Knot
Lark's Head Knot Difficulty: Beginner Cords needed: 1 (folded) per attachment Best cord: Any type and size The lark's head knot is how virtually every macrame piece begins. It's the standard mounting method for attaching working cords to a dowel, ring, branch, or any other anchor element. The knot is fast to tie, extremely secure when loaded, and leaves two equal working cord ends below the mounting point. Because it attaches cord neatly and securely, it is the usual starting knot for wall hangings and many plant hangers. Its function isn't limited to mounting, though. The lark's head can also be used to join cords mid-project, add new cord for fringe effects, and create textured rows when used in multiples across a carrier cord.
How to Tie a Lark's Head Knot
- Fold your cord in half to find the midpoint.
- Place the folded midpoint loop in front of your dowel or ring.
- Bring the loop over and behind the dowel.
- Pull both cord ends through the loop from front to back.
- Pull down firmly - the knot tightens against the dowel.
Reverse Lark's Head: When Direction Matters
The standard lark's head has the loop visible at the front. The reverse lark's head flips the knot so the loop falls behind, creating a small horizontal bar at the front instead. The reverse version is common in projects where you want a cleaner, more architectural look at the top of the piece - the bar creates a subtle horizontal line rather than a V-shaped loop.
When to Use the Lark's Head
Use it every time you mount cords at the start of a project. Use it mid-project when you need to add extra cords - for widening a piece, adding fringe extensions, or recovering from a cord that was cut too short. Use multiple reversed lark's head knots in consecutive rows to create a textured "gathering" effect along a horizontal carrier cord.
Knot 3: The Spiral Knot (Half Square Knot Spiral)
Spiral / Half Square Knot Difficulty: Beginner Cords needed: 4 (same as square knot) Best cord: 3mm-5mm (approximately 1/8-3/16 inch) twisted The spiral knot is simply the first half of a square knot repeated continuously on the same side. Instead of completing the full knot by switching sides, you always start from the same side. The result is a natural spiral twist that develops over every 3-4 repetitions. It creates a dramatically different visual texture from the square knot despite using the same basic hand motion. It is especially useful when you want a visible twist and a softer, more flowing line than a flat square-knot panel. The spiral is one of those techniques that feels almost magical the first time you do it. You tie what seems like a wrong knot (always the same side), and after 5-6 repetitions, the entire column rotates in front of your eyes.
How to Tie the Spiral Knot
- Set up 4 cords exactly as you would for a square knot.
- Tie the first half of a square knot: cord 1 over fillers, cord 4 under fillers and through loop.
- Tighten.
- Instead of switching sides, repeat the same first half: cord 1 over fillers again, cord 4 under and through.
- Continue repeating only this half, always starting from the same side. After 3-4 repetitions, the column will begin to rotate naturally.
- The rotation happens on its own - don't force it. Just keep tying consistently.
When to Use the Spiral Knot
Use spiral knots when you want organic, flowing texture instead of geometric flat structure. Plant hanger body sections look excellent with spiral columns - the twist gives the piece dimension and movement. Spiral sections in wall hangings create visual contrast against flat square knot grids. They're also faster to tie than full square knots because you're only doing half the motion.
How to Control Spiral Direction
Always starting from the left side produces a left-leaning spiral (the natural direction for most right-handed crafters). Always starting from the right side produces a right-leaning spiral. Side-by-side spiral columns with opposite directions create an attractive mirrored effect that's very popular in contemporary macrame wall hangings. This takes no extra skill - just decide your direction before you start each column and stay consistent. Tension Tip: Keep tension consistent between repetitions. The most common spiral problem is uneven spacing - tight knots alternating with loose ones. Develop a rhythm: tie, pull outward evenly, tie again at the same distance below. After 10-15 knots the rhythm becomes automatic.
Knot 4: The Gathering Knot (Wrapping Knot)
Gathering / Wrapping Knot Difficulty: Beginner-Intermediate Cords needed: 1 working cord, multiple filler cords Best cord: 3mm-5mm (approximately 1/8-3/16 inch) twisted or braided The gathering knot (also called a wrapping knot) solves one of the most common structural problems in macrame: what to do when you have a bundle of loose cords that need to be drawn together into a single unified group. It wraps one working cord tightly around multiple filler cords in a spiral, creating a clean cylindrical bundle. This knot is structural - it actually holds the grouped cords together under tension, not just aesthetically. Beginners often skip this knot, then discover that it is the cleanest way to control loose cord bundles. Plant hangers use gathering knots constantly - at the top where all hanging cords converge, and at the bottom where they bundle together to form the base. Wall hangings use them to create transition points between knotted sections and fringe sections, pulling loose cords into a neat column before releasing them into fringe.
How to Tie a Gathering Knot
- Bundle your filler cords together and hold them in one hand.
- Take a separate working cord (or one of the filler cords set aside for this purpose). Fold it in half and place the loop at the top of the bundle, pointing upward. One end of the working cord should hang down alongside the filler bundle.
- Take the other end of the working cord and begin wrapping it tightly downward around both the filler bundle and the first part of the working cord.
- Wrap as many times as you need (3-8 wraps is typical) moving downward with each wrap.
- Thread the wrapping end through the loop at the top of the bundle.
- Pull the long end of the working cord (the one at the top) upward firmly. This draws the loop - and the wrapping end threaded through it - up inside the wrapping, locking everything in place.
- Trim both working cord ends close to the gathering knot.
When to Use the Gathering Knot
Use gathering knots at the top of plant hangers to consolidate all hanging cords before they meet the hook. Use them at the base of plant hangers to bundle cords into the base structure. In wall hangings, use them to create clean transition zones between different sections, to add emphasis to a particular area by drawing cords visually inward, and to start or end diagonal groupings.
Knot 5: The Double Half Hitch
Double Half Hitch (DHH) Difficulty: Intermediate Cords needed: 1 carrier cord + multiple knotting cords Best cord: 3mm-5mm (approximately 1/8-3/16 inch) twisted The double half hitch is where macrame design gains real fluency. It's the knot that creates every diagonal line, every curved row, every chevron, every arch, and every letter or shape you'll see in pattern-forward macrame work. A single knotting cord is tied twice around a carrier cord - and the direction you angle the carrier cord controls where the resulting row of knots travels. Horizontal carrier = horizontal line. Diagonal carrier = diagonal line. Curved carrier = curved row. It becomes especially valuable as you move from beginner practice pieces to pattern-led designs. Many beginners find this knot confusing at first because it operates differently from the square knot. With square knots, the filler cords stay still and the working cords move. With double half hitch, the carrier cord is actively moved and angled by you, while each knotting cord works around it in turn. Once that logic clicks, the whole knot makes sense.
How to Tie a Double Half Hitch (Horizontal Row)
- Designate one cord as your carrier cord. Hold it horizontally across all other cords at the height where you want the row.
- Take the leftmost knotting cord. Bring it over and behind the carrier cord, then bring the end through the loop you've just created. Pull tight. This is one half hitch.
- Repeat step 2 with the same cord, in the same direction. Two half hitches on the same carrier cord = one complete double half hitch.
- Move to the next cord to the right. Repeat. Continue across all cords.
- At the end of the row, the carrier cord has traveled across the full width of the piece.
Diagonal and Curved Double Half Hitch
For diagonal lines, angle the carrier cord at your desired angle (typically 45 degrees) and proceed as above. The knots will follow wherever the carrier cord leads. For curves, bend the carrier cord into the curve shape as you work, maintaining that curve with one hand while knotting with the other. This takes some practice but produces the curved arches and organic shapes that define contemporary macrame wall art.
When to Use the Double Half Hitch
Use double half hitches whenever your design requires a defined line - horizontal, diagonal, curved, or complex. Chevron patterns consist entirely of diagonal double half hitch rows meeting at a center point. Arch patterns use curved double half hitches. Letters and graphic shapes are formed by mapping double half hitch rows along the outline of the shape. The square knot cannot replicate any of these results.
How Do These 5 Knots Work Together?
The real skill in macrame is not tying individual knots but sequencing them. Every project uses combinations. A typical beginner wall hanging might use: lark's head to mount cords, square knots for the body, spiral knots for textural columns, a gathering knot to transition to fringe, and the fringe itself. Adding double half hitches to that repertoire unlocks geometric patterns, chevrons, and curved shapes. That's five knots covering an enormous range of finished results. The best way to learn the combinations is to practice each knot in isolation on a small practice piece first - just 8 cords attached to a short dowel. Spend 30 minutes on each knot until your hands know the motion without your eyes having to guide them. Then combine. You'll be surprised how quickly complexity emerges from simple components. | Knot Primary Function Creates Cannot Create | | Lark's Head Mounting & attachment Starting points, textured rows Structural body sections | | Square Knot Grid structure Diamonds, grids, solid panels Diagonal lines, curves | | Spiral Knot Textural columns Twisting spiral effect Flat surfaces, geometric lines | | Gathering Knot Bundling and transitions Clean group transitions, accents Extended sections | | Double Half Hitch Defined line-making Diagonals, curves, chevrons, shapes Open grid structures | Practice Sequence: Day 1: Lark's head (mounting) + square knot. Day 2: Spiral knot variations. Day 3: Gathering knot. Day 4: Horizontal double half hitch rows. Day 5: Diagonal double half hitch. Day 6: First complete project using all five. This six-day sequence gives beginners a manageable order for building skills.
What Cord Is Best for Learning These Knots?
The cord you practice on matters more than most people expect. Learning knots on 4mm or 5mm (5/32 or 3/16 inch) single-strand twisted cotton cord is significantly easier than learning on 2mm (approximately 1/16 inch) string or 8mm (approximately 5/16 inch) rope. The 4mm-5mm (5/32-3/16 inch) range has enough body that knots are visible and easy to feel, but enough flexibility that your hands don't fatigue from forcing thick rope. The texture of twisted cord also grips itself slightly, which helps knots stay in position while you work - smooth braided cord can shift before you finish tightening. Use natural undyed cotton for practice. It's easier to see exactly where each strand goes in a knot. Once you can tie each knot correctly and consistently without looking at instructions, then experiment with colors and different cord weights.
Which macrame knot should an absolute beginner learn first?
Start with the lark's head knot for mounting your cords, then immediately learn the square knot. These two knots together let you complete a real, finished wall hanging. Most beginner classes spend the entire first session on these two knots alone, and rightly so. The square knot is the building block everything else grows from. Once it's in your muscle memory, the other four knots come much more quickly.
How long does it take to learn all 5 knots?
With focused practice of 30-60 minutes per day, most beginners can tie all five knots correctly within 10-14 days. The lark's head, square, spiral, and gathering knots typically take 1-2 sessions each to learn. The double half hitch usually takes 3-5 sessions before it feels confident - the directional logic is the sticking point, not the physical motion. Consistent short sessions beat occasional long ones for building muscle memory.
What is the difference between a square knot and a double half hitch?
They solve completely different design problems. A square knot is tied with 4 cords (2 working, 2 filler) and creates a flat, horizontal knot. It's used for grid structures and open-work patterns. A double half hitch uses one carrier cord that you hold at an angle, and multiple knotting cords each tie two half hitches around it. It creates defined lines in any direction. You'll use both in almost every project beyond beginner level.
Why does my spiral knot not spiral?
The most common reason is that you're alternating sides - tying a square knot instead of a spiral knot. A spiral requires you to always start from the same side (always left, or always right) without switching. The second common cause is too much space between knots - pack them tightly against each other and the rotation will become visible. A correct spiral should rotate once every 3-4 knot repetitions. If yours doesn't rotate after 8 knots, you're switching sides without realizing it.
How do I stop my knots from being uneven?
Uneven knots almost always come from inconsistent tension - pulling some knots tighter than others. The fix is deliberate: after each knot, pull both working cords outward with equal force before moving to the next knot. Use a ruler or spacing guide (a piece of cardboard cut to your desired knot spacing) to maintain consistent gaps between knots. A simple spacing tool helps you see and correct inconsistencies while you practise.
Can I make a plant hanger with just these 5 knots?
Yes, completely. A classic plant hanger uses: lark's head to start, gathering knot at the top, spiral or square knot columns for the body, square knots for the basket section, and a gathering knot at the base. That's four of the five knots. Adding double half hitch bands for decorative horizontal lines covers all five. The standard plant hanger pattern that beginners start with requires only the square knot, gathering knot, and lark's head - so you're overqualified by the time you've learned all five.